The Beast

The Beast

 

I own a 2013 Ford F-250 with a Gen-1 Powerstroke diesel.  Last week, I hit 490,000 miles.  You read that right. 490,000.  I never intended to put that many miles on the truck, but after 13 years of driving to bird hunt, it’s what I have.  The last F-250 I had, was sold at 385,000 miles.  It was a 7.3 diesel, and I wish I still had it. Now, as they say, its a thing with me.  And, my plan is to keep driving the Beast to see just how long I can keep it flying.  

 

I have many friends that ask about how it’s going, how many miles I have, and what am I doing to increase the life of the engine? I thought I’d share some tips.  Some are really important, some not so much, but I wanted to put them out there.  Pick and choose.  I also know that discussing diesel trucks is like discussing bird dogs, maybe even more controversial. So, keep in mind I am not a diesel engineer, just a guy with a technical mind that gives far more weight to facts, numbers, testing, and science than anecdotal evidence. 

 

I made a few modifications to the basic truck soon after I bought it, such as swapping out the ridiculous plastic 28-gallon fuel tank for a steel 50-gallon tank, and adding airbags to the rear end, but those are drivability issues.  So, on to the the diesel engine.  

 

Find a diesel mechanic you trust. It was more by chance than effort when I found  Lucas. He was working for a great shop I’d been using for years.  We met when I had some turbo issues at about 150,000 miles, and he did the work.  He doesn’t mind that I ask a lot of questions and stop in and watch him work. After a while, he left that company and started his own business, and I followed him.  He’s honest and I trust him.  I don’t think I’m getting the family discount, but at least I get what I pay for.  Another fun by-product of a good relationship is communication.  Several times over the years, I would call him while on the road and we would discuss this problem or that.  Invariably, his advice would be spot on.  I have his personal phone number and promised to never abuse that.  A few years ago, my truck was overheating while pulling my camper (8000#) up a long, steep (8-10+%) grade in 95 deg heat in Wyoming, I made it to the top, after several pull-offs and cool-downs, and called Lucas.  I described the symptoms, etc., and he was pretty sure it was the fan clutch on the radiator.  Spot on, it turned out.  The Ford dealership said it was a coolant leak in a line to the turbo and they couldn’t even look at fixing it for 10 days.  That didn’t pass the smell test to my non-mechanic brain.  Since it was all downhill to Georgia, I drove it home and let Lucas fix it.  

 

Important!  Don’t use the dealer recommended oil change interval.  Years ago, I started having my used oil analyzed after every oil change.  At that time, I was using the recommended 7500 mile interval (or when the oil change light illumnated). I found out out that I was getting the least amount of engine wear (metal particles per 1000 miles) when I changed the oil at or close to 6000 miles- per the analysis.  I have many reports in the database now and I’m confident my engine internals aren’t coming apart.  And I am tracking trends, so I can catch abnormal wear before it becomes a problem.  There are many companies out there that will do this for you.  The one I use is Speediagnostix.com, owned by Lake Speed, Jr., a true motor oil geek.  (None of the products I mention give me anything. I just wanted to give you a place to start looking.). Also, I use a full synthetic Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40.  Great oil, available everywhere, including Walmart.  I won’t get into the “100% synthetic “ vs. “full synthetic” vs. PAO oil here, but it makes a good story.  Full synthetic oil is excellent, especially if you are changing it every 6000 miles. Check out “The Motor Oil Geek” YouTube channel and make your own informed decision.  (Trigger warning:  He uses science and numbers to prove his assertions.)

 

Normally, I would use the Ford oil filter.  I found, what I think is a superior product- the PPE oil filter.  A larger capacity, with a lower micron filter media to catch more of the oil contaminants. (Go to:https://ppepower.com/collections/oil-filters and make your own decision.). My Gen-1 Powerstroke uses 14 quarts of oil with the PPE (bigger) oil filter.  The Gen-3’s (’22 and newer) use 15 quarts.  

 

Let’s talk diesel fuel.  The diesel fuel in the U.S. is junk.  That’s important to know, because it relates directly to the “Achilles Heel” in the my Powerstroke engine.  My engine has a Bosch High Pressure Fuel pump- the CP4.  The CP4 uses the fuel itself for lubrication- specifically the sulphur in the fuel.  When the US started requiring diesel companies to nearly eliminate the sulphur in the fuel, they eliminated the lubrication for the CP4 pump.  Consequently, the pump will eventually wear and come apart and send metal parts in to the entire fuel system- (a $10,000-$15,000 repair).   This could happen under 100,000 miles.  There are two ways to overcome this problem and keep your diesel running. The first is to install a “disaster prevention Donaldson filter” kit just downstream of the pump.  (https://ssdiesel.com).  When the CP4 “grenades” itself, the metal is captured in the disaster kit fuel filter and the repair is significantly less, only a CP4 pump replacement. 

 

Important!  The second is to never put fuel in your truck without adding a fuel conditioner. These products add lubricity for the CP4 pump, increase the deficient cetane rating in US diesel, prevent icing in cold weather and other things.  Three good ones are Hotshots EDT, Archoil, and Power Service.  YouTube has numerous comparison videos to watch.  I have used all three over the last 490,000 miles.  Currently, I’m using Power Service, mostly because it’s available at nearly every truck stop. Convenience is a factor. 

 

Also, I go with aftermarket fuel filters from Doc’s Diesel.  They advertise a much better micron rating media to clean the fuel better.  

 

The Chevy and Cummins diesels have their own failure points, e.g. the grid heater bolt on the Cummins, and the head gaskets on the Chevy with their aluminum heads bolted to iron blocks and expansion issues.  I suggest watching “Dave’s Auto” on YouTube to learn about these issues and the aftermarket fixes.   It makes a lot of sense to me to fix before failure, if you know the weakness.  As was explained to me once, “Hope is not a plan.”

 

I had my original CP4 pump replaced last week.  I was gambling every time I went west, and I started getting nervous driving those two-tracks in the desert or mountains.  I had the disaster kit on it, and I used fuel additve from day one, but for peace-of-mind, I took the hit and had a new, improved CP4 installed (as well as my third water pump and second sepentine belt).  

 

Back at the start of this, I mentioned how diesel maintenance is a hot-button issue.  I get it.  Maybe what I do will help you get more miles out of your own beast.  And don’t forget the crankcase filter, transfer case, and differential fluids. I do my own transfer case and oil changes.  The rest I leave to Lucas. 

 

Bottom line: Diesel maintenance is expensive, but so is the cost of new truck.  I hope to be able to hit 750,000 miles with my new puppy on board. Stay tuned and buy the puppy.